To the Emerald Isle
Dolmen at Carlow |
The Old Cork Asylum |
From Killarney to the Gap of Dunloe |
The Rock of Cashel |
Comment on current affairs and recollections from past life. Also poems and stories created and archived through the years.
Dolmen at Carlow |
The Old Cork Asylum |
From Killarney to the Gap of Dunloe |
The Rock of Cashel |
Through all my youth Dunedin toon has been sae fu‘ of beauty,
Tae find that paragon sae fair, has been ma bounden duty.
Ah‘ve lo‘ed them a‘, and tracked them doon, thro' daylight hoors an‘ darkness,
And when they‘re in my arms again, I‘ve marvelled at their starkness.
The perfect lass, Ah‘ll tell ye noo, my memory‘s fast recedin‘,
Is made from mony a charmer frae the suburbs o‘ Dunedin.
And as I sit at Stuart‘s foot, my back turned on the kirkin‘,
Ah‘ll put her all togither, as my mind like fever‘s workin‘.
Her hair belonged to Mosgiel‘s Jean, whose lovely auburn tresses,
Wad make me wish she lived in toon, at handier addresses.
Her eyes belonged to Caversham, where Alice lived in splendour,
She only had to open them, to have me sigh so tender.
Her ankles are from Woodhaugh‘s Claire, and as I walked behind her,
She need not turn her face to me, those well-turned pins would find her.
The hips and thighs of ample Sal, who wooed me round St Kilda,
Were all the contours I traversed, with heavenly form they filled her.
Anither love was Roslyn‘s Rose, her waist and bosom famous,
And when a lass has parts like that, it‘s simple fare to tame us.
The lips belonged to Belleknowes Jane, her kiss was so inviting,
I couldna stop at ane alone, my fervent needs requiting.
The twinkling feet and lively legs were Caversham‘s Ramona‘s,
We‘d dance sae crazy, all oor friends were ready to disown us.
The slinky arms from Maori Hill belonged to little Mavis,
As roond ma neck they slid their way; ‘twould take a prayer to save us.
And last, those hands, that precious touch, of Olive from the City,
Her magic fingers twined in mine, to leave her was a pity.
But the most essential item of this fine eclectic creature,
Is the mind which ticks within her; it‘s her all-important feature.
As Dunedin men admire her from her head down to her toes,
May the brain of Mayor Sukhinder now direct her as she goes.
So get your mindies working, and just weave this wondrous being,
And as I sit here; face the pub; you‘ll doubtless be agreeing.
In man‘s imagination you can take it all in turns,
To walk aboot the Octagon wi' the girl of Robbie Burns.
- Slidge (2004)
Billy Molloy looked nervously across at his wife as she slammed the last dish in the cupboard. The kids were in bed, thank God, all except Ngaire of course. And where the hell was she on a filthy night like this? Safe in the pictures at Greymouth, as she’ll probably try to tell us? Or up on the Taylorville back road with that young Mitchell in his 1953 Velox?! It’ll be a bloody miracle if she gets to seventeen without a disaster.
Rita Molloy, stolid and miserable, poked the fire unmercifully, picked up her knitting, and settled down with the 3YZ Request Session as if Billy didn’t exist. Nice boy, that Terry Mitchell – nice family altogether – she could do a lot worse. Oh, yes, my Ngaire can look after herself. Even when her husband got up to peer under the water-marked holland blind, she didn’t flinch.
The steady three-day rain was still tinning away on the roof, gutters spilling down past the window to run under the house, and a huge reflecting pool of black splashing in the pile of coal at the gate. He could just see the misty lemon blob of the nearest street light and the downward driving lines of the familiar rain.
She won’t care if I go along to the pub. Won’t miss me, anyway. Better than sitting here chained to the kennel. Down in the mine all day, wet walls, sweaty, shiny workmates, all grunts and heaves, soggy sandwiches and thermos tea, - - pick, shovel,fuse,blast, drill and sweat! What for? To sit here with more grunts from her, and the water trying its best to come straight through the bloody roof. Aw, bugger it!
Rita shrugged out a knowing derisive snort as he grabbed for his oilskin behind the door. “Down to Wallsend for a jug” was quite redundant, and “Won’t be long” was unconvincing. She never was much of a girl for the pub.
There was the usual crowd in the bar, long after most of the pubs in the country had closed, and Roy Williams, the pubkeeper, leaned over all confidential-like, tea-towel over his shoulder. Heard about the new cop at Taylorville? Yeah, came over all cobbery, told me to close at eleven and he wouldn’t worry me. Eleven be buggered, let ‘im bloody try! The usual, Billy? O.K. - comin’ up.
The smoke was thick in the little square room, big villa windows onto the verandah, blinds pulled hard down, no outside lights, and the good old phone to warn you of the ‘flying squad’ as it shot through Kaiata or Stillwater.
Like a club it was, with the buzz and shout of the beer-talk, the loud-mouthed skite and pickled confidences, man to man, arm around the neck, “cos I trust y’ see?”, but more to keep the balance really. One lot of regulars played 45’s under the unsubtle light, the whole rowdy scene a going concern, good for the pub, good for the miners, the real social life of the Coast.
Then there was one long blast of the front door-bell. The noise stuttered, dwindled and was gone. It’s that new cop! Quick, out the back! Says Roy.
It’ll be a bit wet, but it won’t be for long. Billy fairly scampered out with the others in single file, jugs, glasses and all, Roy swabbing the bar like a flash, two of the Ngahere lads grabbing brooms, and the scene was set.
Over the back porch went the others, straight into the dark,damp,towering bush, up the wet, black, earthy bank, pulling on grass and supplejacks, swearing at blackberry and lawyer, grabbing the sticky, dirty tree-trunks, as they scurried for perfect cover in the night.
And there they crouched facing the pub, as the rain hammered down on the sheds and lean-to, pouring, soaking and dripping through the heavy leaves, into their hair, down their necks, as they pulled up their coat collars in vain. Someone was hushed as he started to abuse the new cop.
It seemed like hours, and Billy felt he was still down the mine – only this was worse. In the bush in the rain at midnight surrounded by fools like himself. But they all knew the drill. Roy would pitch a yarn about leaving the cleaning-up till pretty late, offer the policeman a drink, or even a bottle of Scotch to keep him sweet, see him out the front, then call them all back in to continue the night. What bloody fools we’ll all look at home, back from the pub like drowned rats! Billy could already hear Rita’s biting wisdom, and wished he’d stayed with the Request Session.
Then Roy’s voice! O.K. Come on in! It must’ve been a false alarm. There wasn’t even a car!
Then the swearing really started, as they trooped crazily in, shaking themselves in the hall as the lights came on, back to the bar for an hour or two and the roaring fire. Like Billy to a man, no-one was wife-bound just yet for a while. It came as quite a surprise to most of them there when the last man in shut the door quietly behind him, turned the key in the lock, and took their names and addresses.
Billy Molloy often thought about that rainy night in the bush . . . . “He didn’t last long, that new cop, and anyway, we never got our names in the paper like they did over the hill. All a bit of a dag really.” Rita Molloy always reckoned they were a bit tough on him. “What’s wrong with making you all obey the law just for once in your life? And it’s only for boozing!” Never was much of a girl for the pub.
It was a dirty trick, Colin reckoned. He must've seen us on the beach. Anyway, it wasn't his beach, it was our beach. Our grandfather walked along it at low-tide nearly every day, and he picked up all the funny-shaped pieces of driftwood, and he found the dead albatross with the six-foot wingspan. That stupid pilot probably never played on a beach. He wouldn't know how to make a sea-weed ball, or take a catch at mid-wicket when you're running through the breakers. He wasn't standing on top of the sand-hills during the big sea. Our grandfather was. And he saw the sloping sand-hill fall away beneath his feet, and wondered whether his little lean-to house was going to be next to go.
"Look at that plane!", someone shouted, and we all looked too high, then lower, right down against the shadow of Blackhead, and the plane looked huge, bearing down on our beach, its two frail wings rocking slightly in the wind as though not quite under control. We'd never seen a plane at such close quarters. "He's going to land on the beach! Quick, get up to the sand-hill!", shouted our big brother Wally,and we ran.
Maybe he was going to land on the beach, but I don't reckon so, claims Colin to this day. It was blowing a gusty easterly off the sea that day, and the weeks of easy weather had planed the beach down to a pleasant powdery white, warm under the bare feet, and coloured near the tide-mark by the orange grit patches and their lovely wind-swept corrugations. Wally was in charge of the four of us, and wasn't letting us go swimming without Mum or Grandad around. We'd all been down to the end of the beach already, paddled across the beck just beneath the black bridge, and dug some racing cars out of the sand. But the tide was going out, and we couldn't be bothered chasing it, so Dave ran home for the big kite, and he and Wally got it going and played out the enormous ball of string they'd brought from Dunedin. Colin and Jean mucked about with a sort of hut in the lupins for a while, then went out to see how high they'd got the kite.
It was a big white kite, a bought one, with the word "ACE" in huge red capital letters right across its face, and Wally and Dave, who were pretty good scientists, had made a long cloth tail of ripped-up sheets, tied with red ribbons. It made it pretty heavy, but it was stable, and this day it climbed and climbed proudly on the breeze, as Wally let more and more string off the stick, until he got to the end of it, and it was the highest kite we'd ever had! We all stood there on the beach, our beach, the wind pinning the shirts to our backs, so proud, with our feet apart, hands on hips, mouths open and eyes squinting in the glare of the bright sky. The highest kite we'd ever had!
Wally reckoned the sand could hold the stick, and we could have a game of cricket before it was time to go home, or if the truth be known before Mum appeared at the top of the sand-hill crying out like the seagulls to her brood. He dug the stick savagely into the sand, stamped all around it, then we all made a big pile of sand, until the stick was well and truly buried under a heavy hillock.
You had to have at least a dozen sea-weed balls for a decent game of beach cricket, as they didn't last forever, but Wally and Dave were pretty good at carving them into neat little spheres, then putting little sister Jean behind the driftwood stumps, and sending Colin, the smallest, to paddle at mid-wicket after his short first innings. Then they'd do most of the batting and bowling, as well as shouting directions and generally abusing the fielders, both of them.
Jean it was, bored with her unexciting role, and exhausted after long runs to the south as the batsman ran dozens of byes, who saw the plane first. "Look at that plane!" The four children rushed to the doubtful shelter of the lupins, and stood there, mouths open with simple astonishment, as the crazy biplane, engine now roaring as it loomed and lurched toward them just off the ground, enormous like the albatross, as it climbed again below the kite.
He snipped it off as neat as if with scissors, he did, that grinning mad pilot, and off he went above our beach, with our kite, our "ACE", the highest kite we'd ever had! The boys shouted and waved their fists, and the long, long string came drifting, drifting down, blowing sadly in the wind.
"He did it on purpose!" said Dave angrily, back in Grandad's little house. "He was laughing at us!" cried Jean. "It was dangerous low flying," was Wally's calm judgment. "He shouldn't of been on our beach!" repeated Colin for the third or fourth time. "He's a robber!" "Wash that sand off your feet before you come in this house!" said Mum.
The headmaster at the time was the religious, upright, fearsome and authoritarian Bill Barham, whose heavy size ten tread along the school corridors was dreaded by children and staff alike. My fellow P.A. and friend Helen Logie shared my fear, though she was nursed along a little more kindly, I believe, by the Infant Mistress, the imposing and motherly Miss Monaghan. Another friend on the staff was Norman Frew, a year ahead of us, who simply hated the thought of old Bigboots bearing down upon him. From our point of view, the Head seemed to spend nearly all his time inspecting and examining us in order to reveal the shortcomings, inefficiencies and defects that he believed were all too common in the "youth of today".
I still remember many of the children in my first class, notably the Parata twins Atanui and Hurene, who were a little bit "agin’ the government". Nui, the more aggressive and confident of the two, would take on anyone or anything, including me, and would also rescue her twin sister in class by whispering the required answer just loud enough for Rene to receive. At times I was amazed that Nui had even heard the question. It was my first experience of that uncanny communication often reported among twins. Then there was Irene Graham, my first experience of a girl not easy to manage, as she seemed to foment strife among other girls by changing her "best friend" almost daily. A chip on her shoulder she certainly had, and we never really hit it off. Brian Anderson was an interesting individual who once regaled the class with a morning talk about his pet kangaroo, which I suspect was a fantasy. But he did it most convincingly. Colin McKay was one of those rewarding pupils who always seemed to want to learn and want to do well. I met him in later life, and he was still the same positive, nice guy that he was at age 8. Others included Kevin Downey (from a Welfare home I think), Brenda McGee, Lorraine Duncan, Robbie Watson, Joy Winder, Beverley Smith, Verna Geddes (a sincere and delightful country girl from a farm at the start of the Brighton Road), Tommy Mitchell (maybe a little older than the rest), Elizabeth Campbell (always keen to please, and lived almost next to the school), Gary Woodford (from a famous cycling family on the Brighton Rd), a Tippetts boy from Abbotsford, Anna Bremner (a pale and quiet child whom I met years later with her baby and pram in a Green Island shop).
We had a School Concert that year, in the old Cinema on the Fairfield road. My class did verse-speaking, which they were very good at. It involved them speaking clearly with good enunciation, as well as memorizing some pretty good poetry, both of these aims being worthy of pursuit, even today, I suggest! The ones in the front row on stage each held a large white card bearing a huge black capital letter, which they kept concealed till the conductor (me) raised his baton. Each child then made sure that the little pencilled stick man on the back of the card was not upside down, and the whole big sign went right across the stage, spelling "STD 2 VERSE SPEAKING". They were trained like a choir to watch the conductor, and to react appropriately to the various baton signs and movements, and the results were well worth listening to. Our masterpiece was an extract from "The Pied Piper" which I still know by heart. I wonder if they do!
Into the street the piper stept,
Smiling first a little smile,
As if he knew what magic slept
In his quiet pipe the while.
Then, like a musical adept,
To blow the pipe his lips he wrinkled,
And blue and green his sharp eyes twinkled,
Like a candle flame where salt is sprinkled.
And ere three notes the pipe uttered,
You heard as if an army muttered,
And the muttering grew to a grumbling,
And the grumbling grew to a mighty rumbling,
And out of the houses the rats came tumbling!
Great rats, small rats, lean rats, brawny rats,
Brown rats, black rats, grey rats, tawny rats,
Grave old plodders, gay young friskers,
Fathers, mothers, uncles, cousins,
Cocking tails and pricking whiskers,
Families by tens and dozens,
Brothers, sisters, husbands, wives,
Followed the Piper for their lives!
Perhaps the most dramatic memory from 1946, though, was the visit to New Zealand of the world’s first active service jet fighter plane the Gloster Meteor.
We all assembled in the playground as the Meteor did its things over Dunedin, and we hardly got a glimpse of it. Then some bright spark, probably Ralph Park, rang through to Taieri Aerodrome to find out whether we might get a closer look at it as it returned to base. The pilot must have been contacted, for a closer look we surely got, as the plane roared in quite low over the village, only to go into a fast vertical climb right over the school. Some of the littlies were lying on the ground by this time, and every mouth was wide open, as the Meteor did a U-turn, and a fast dive straight back toward the ground. Not only had we never seen an aircraft without propellers before, but neither had we known that a diving plane could go so fast, and level out so smoothly.
I will never forget it!
Raurimu Spiral :Photo taken 24/1/57 by Whites Aviation.(Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library necessary before re-use of this image.)
When I was 20 I played cricket for Kaitieke. I don't even remember who we played against – probably Raurimu and others. But two things I will never forget. One was the lovely dark blue cricket cap, with the gold KCC monogram, a cap which I kept for many years before it disappeared unaccountably. The other was the function and duties of the club Treasurer, whose actual name escapes me. But I do recall that he was the proud owner of a sweet little coupe car, possibly a Model A roadster with a dicky seat.
Now apparently when the club officers were elected, someone called the Secretary would embrace both jobs normally held by Secretary and Treasurer, including the handling of subs, receipts, and club finances, as well as minutes and correspondence. Then what did the Treasurer do, you might ask? To clarify this peculiar arrangement, allow me to describe one particular match, when the Treasurer's role was so critical.
The King Country was of course, a dry district, where the Licensing Laws prohibited the sale and supply of alcoholic beverages. This did not signify that those who lived there were denied the pleasures of a homely tipple, and indeed the Kaitieke-Retaruke area was not by any means a collection of teetotallers. People would order their 2-dozen crates of beer from Wanganui or further afield, and the transfer of generous quantities of liquor of all sorts from Raurimu Railway Station to their destinations involved Mousie Shaw with his mail-truck, and plenty of urgent private excursions over the hill from Kaitieke.
Now right opposite the Kaitieke School, was a long rough-hewn kind of counter on shiny macrocarpa posts, serving no purpose apparent to anyone but an experienced local, but on the day of this match its purpose became clear to me. The job of the Treasurer was to make sure that by 6 pm on the day of any home match, an ample supply of beer was to arrive from the railhead, and be laid out on the long counter for rapid sale immediately after the game. This is why we saw his little car speeding towards Raurimu during the afternoon, and it turned out that he had no interest in the game of cricket whatsoever. Round about 5.45 pm, the Treasurer re-appeared, unloaded his car, stocked up the counter, covering the table with the large brown bottles which were so common in those days.
The moment the umpire called Stumps, both teams surged across the road, and bought for cash the number of bottles each man thought he could consume. The Treasurer then whipped all the crates back in the car, and drove off. He had already checked on the location and activities of any Taumarunui police patrols, and would have had reliable information on the margins of safety for his operation. But it was as smooth as silk. The Treasurer of the Kaitieke Cricket Club would have no further duties until the next home match.
As for the consumers, once they owned their own beer, they were quite carefree about where they consumed it, and most of it was enjoyed there and then, as we all lounged about in the long grass on both sides of the road. I remember Joe Karam (the lawyer's father?) galloping through on his fine white hunter, to the cheers of the half-sozzled mob, and young Len Ryan (sadly lost later at Tangiwai) and I attempting to bike-race back to the Post Office, but converging in the first ten metres before resigning from the race as we both splattered onto the roadway.
One thing is crystal clear. To have a successful local cricket team, you must have a first-class Treasurer.
At the ripe old age of 21, I had just been appointed to my second sole-charge school, having spent a year in the heart of the King Country. I had learned a lot in the Retaruke Valley, including how to go pig-hunting, how to drink beer, how to ride horses, and why not to interfere between husband and wife in a domestic argument! I'd also experienced the remoteness of a cul-de-sac valley, whose children regarded Ohakune as "the big smoke". I was also beginning to learn that every child was a unique individual with his or her own learning needs and learning style.
Arriving in Pahiatua on a Sunday afternoon, little did I realize that the whole Diamond family had driven forty miles to Mass that morning, had been inspected by their meticulous aunt and cross-examined by their grandmother, and were already church- and travel-weary by the time they confronted their new teacher in the 1939 Ford V8 which was to bring on my car-sickness so efficiently over the next few years. Marie was already away at Sacred Heart College, and the bright and curious eyes that darted around me that day belonged to Rosalie, Michael, Paul and Eleanor, ranging in ages from about 10 to 5. On the way out through Ngaturi and Makuri, I was impressed with the greenness of the farms, and the interesting rolling yet rugged scenery - enough patches of bush and glimpses of river to break any monotony, but nothing as forbidding and threatening as the enveloping bush-covered ridges and sheer papa bluffs that had dwarfed me in the King Country. This looked a "green and pleasant land" indeed in comparison. Drina Diamond (and I would never have called her that!) was trim and polite and the essence of courtesy, as she quietly pumped out the details of my background and interests; was she monitoring the young fellow that was going to be trusted with her kids, or was she just trying to include me in the conversation and put me at ease? Probably the latter, to give her her due, but boy, she sure asked a lot of questions. Joe, at the wheel, occasionally grunted his agreement, or was it a laugh, and once or twice barked at the two boys, threatening to flail them within an inch of their life if they didn't stop needling each other. Meanwhile the V8 zoomed, lurched and floated its way around the snaking, shingle road between Makuri and Coonoor, picking up my stomach on its return journey as the notorious cross-springing did its evil work.
We passed Mrs Moore's place, and this was the cue for Joe to tell me for the first time that marvellous tale told by Mrs Moore (when she was the teacher Miss Rankin) against herself. Young Lou was the youngest of a long line of his family that had gone to the Coonoor School, and his family were known for their slowness of speech. Joe wasn't exactly a quick talker himself, but when he mimicked Lou's father and brothers, it was " a reeeealll rustic draaawwwwl" indeed. At last Lou turned five, and went slowly to school, and that first day came slowly home. They all said, very slowly, "Well, Lou. ...... how was schoooool?" And Lou replied, "Ohh, it was all right, but she kept on saying, hurry up Lou, and there was plenty of time." I was later to call at Mrs Moore's place several times, along with the Diamonds' nephew Joe Turnbull and Vic Souness on our way to table tennis, as we all privately imagined that her daughter Dorothy might just fall in love with one of us. My brother and I even helped to paint her roof one weekend, but in the context of our fantasies it was all to no avail, as an older and a wiser man eventually won the day.
My first impression of Coonoor itself, a collection of farms strung out along four unsealed roads that all came together near the school, was a hilly, slightly unkempt sheep country, absolutely strewn with dead timber, as though the settlers had earlier carved out their farms and just left the trees lying to die. The Diamonds were the first house up the road that led over to the East Coast over the Puketoi Range, their only near neighbours being the Verrys, who had no children of school age when I left there in 1950. I used to run up that road for harrier training, and was once picked up bodily in the gale at the top of the range as I turned to enjoy the tail wind home.
On the Makuri road, were Norm and Dom Conway, again with no children at the school, and I was told that they came from a long-standing Coonoor family. Both these men and their wives had a good rapport with the Diamond kids in particular, who called them "uncles" and "aunts" in a sociable way. There might have been a Catholic fellow-feeling there too, I imagine. Opposite Dom Conway was Mollie Welch, who had been tragically widowed just before I arrived, in the days when alcoholics were blamed and talked about rather than treated or helped, and her two really nice kids Helen and Frank were still at the school. Frank Welch and Paul Diamond, when they were little boys together coined a memorable phrase when they were pretending to be their fathers. The one acting as Joe Diamond would ask Wallie Welch to help him, and in 4-yr-old language it came out as "Gizza herp, Wally!", and this request for assistance is still regularly used in our household, and probably in Diamonds' as well. It says a lot for Mollie Welch that she had brought up such good and well-balanced kids when really she was battling the odds.
The other two roads went more or less westwards from the school corner. One was the main road to Dannevirke, the only house being that of Arthur and Elsie Brown, with whom I also boarded during my three year stay. Now there's another family I can never forget, for the way in which, like the Diamonds, they made me feel as though I was one of theirs. Their two older children, Dorothy and Alan, were at the school in 1948, later to be joined by Janet in 1950 and Richard just after I left Coonoor. Elsie Brown, until her death in 2004 in her 90s, was continually inviting us to stay with her when in the North Island. She was a fine, thoughtful and loving family woman, who worked just as hard with her home and children as her tempestuous Arthur did on the farm. Some of the most memorable stories of Coonoor are centred around her fourth child Richard, who in his pre-school years was a holy terror indeed. Not only fearless but imaginative, and rather deaf to any threats or injunctions from his many elders! He had the slightly comic-humorous facial expressions of his father, who continually marvelled at this uncontrollable but lovable child.
On one occasion Richard, when about two, wandered down the drive onto the Dannevirke road, sat in the middle between the heaps of shingle, and played happily with the stones, pouring them from one hand to the other in a dream of pure happiness. At the same time, a laden sheep-truck was roaring past the school, round the S-bend beside the roadman's house, and was already picking up speed on the downhill, when the driver saw Richard's little back and tousled fair hair right in his path. Applying all the brakes and swearwords that he could command, he brought the awful weight to a sliding halt just inches from the boy, who turned his head and looked unconcernedly at the front bumper bar. The driver leapt out of the cab, and carried Richard in to his mother, saying "Does this belong to you?" He was white with shock and anger. The Browns wondered in those early stages whether Richard may in fact have been deaf, as this would explain his apparent lack of comprehension of almost every parental instruction!
Richard was the one who put both hands on the hot stove after being warned not to do so, then did it again after a hospital stay, just after his bandages had been removed. He was also the one who worried his mother sick one day by being missing for hours at the age of about three. On our return from school, we all joined the search parties, into the patches of bush, down by the stream, up the road to the wool-shed, and up through the cow-paddock to the higher parts of the farm. Round about tea-time, Dorothy found him, curled up in one of the dog-kennels asleep with the dog. I am told that he developed, as most kids do, into a perfectly normal, effective adult, in spite of us all. But Mrs Brown occasionally wondered how she kept her sanity.
The fourth road from the school corner was the famous Makairo Track, again with only Harry Smith's, later to be Billy Murphy's farmhouse on the Coonoor side of the bush-covered range. The Murphys lived there during my last year at Coonoor, and the smallest one Raywynne made her name by delivering a "morning talk" which gave away fairly sensitive family details concerning the time and state of inebriation of her father's return home the previous night. This was re-told at the Diamonds' table that night with great glee.
Then right opposite the school was the roadman's house, occupied for many years by the Roils, the only Roil family in those parts! They were pretty hard-up, as the meagre pay of Mr Roil was supposed to support his wife and a whole string of adult children, who seldom left home for greener pastures. The youngest, Les, was about to leave school when I arrived, and to say that he had trouble with reading would be an educational understatement. Les was a nice guy, and a wonderful uncle to his sister's baby boy, but he left Coonoor School, the only one he ever went to, practically illiterate. The other kids may have sniggered in their own homes about Les's lack of intellectual achievements, but at school they treated him with liking and respect, and actually helped the new teacher to understand the kind of work that Les should be doing. I understand that he, too, developed into an effective working man, able to manage his own life and work with more success than some graduates I have known.
The Roils left Coonoor under a cloud unfortunately, involving some questionable dealings with the killing of sheep for meat, but one thing is certain, and that is, that the whole family were not aware of what had been going on, and nothing will change my opinion of Mrs Roil, a generous and loyal wife and mother, who would feed anyone at any time. My first afternoon tea there was an entertainment in itself. I was thrown a scone, the butter came sliding down the long table in a big tin, followed by the jam the same way, accompanied by hoots of laughter from Jim, Les, Mary and Doreen, who were just waiting for me to look embarrassed. I had learned early in my life to fit in with the people I was with, and that served me well that day. I passed their test by hoeing into the scones, and rolling the butter tin back to Jim.
The successor to Tom Roil was Les Deadman, whose arrival meant that the roll of the school leapt up from 11 to 14. The oldest girl Merle was a freckled red-head with the personality of a sociable gossip, and not blessed at that age with a lot of tact or diplomacy. Her mother was of the same ilk, and one week-end at a school working-bee, when we planted those lawsoniana and lonicera trees that fronted the school so handsomely when I re-visited fourteen years later, she was amazed and aghast to witness a Diamond boy and a Deadman girl, play-acting in the school paddock in their birthday suits. They were in fact cave-people. Her interpretation of that harmless incident was blown up into a federal case, with the school-teacher being dragged into the argument, and poor Merle getting a thrashing at her mother's behest from her hapless Dad. Mrs Deadman's summing-up and justification for all this was "She's not goin' to start that young, she'll start young enough as it is!" In a crazy fit of generosity, I once found myself looking after the Deadman children after school until late in the evening, while the parents let a rental car trip through the Wairarapa go to their head.
Les Deadman once saved the Coonoor School from being destroyed by fire, while it was fully occupied! The kids in the standard classes were busy at their exams, the Romesse heater was almost red-hot keeping the school warm, and there was a coating of snow on the whole district. The sheet of asbestos behind the stove had not prevented the match-lining behind it from getting hotter and hotter, and when Les looked casually over from his morning cuppa, he noticed a growing patch of black on the outside weatherboards, with a thin spiral of smoke where smoke shouldn't be. My first hint of anything wrong was the sight of Les Deadman running shouting past the window, "The school's on fire, the school's on fire!". We got the kids and then the fire out in double quick time, and I really can't remember where all the water came from, or how we managed to get it onto the hot spot. But the interrupted examinees thought it was all pretty exciting.
I remember clearly the first day the third Brown child Janet started school. We had photographs of all the children up on the wall along with a short biography, and Janet's first task was to line up for her mug-shot. As I struggled to frame the little cutey in the box camera, complete with striped cardigan and school pinny, the others pressed around behind me, shouting, "Smile, Janet! Smile, Janet!" I waited for her to oblige, but Janet replied with her cultured lisp, her long I-sounds modelled on her mother's Kentish tones, "Ai've no tender to thmaile!" I still have that photo, which records faithfully her honest determination to withstand peer pressure. Good on you, Janet, and I bet you grew up that way, too!
Another photo I have that recalls the spirit of Coonoor School shows the Diamonds, Browns, the Kerrs (who followed the Welches), and Graham Berry tearing around the school just for the teacher to get his picture. Rosalie Diamond, that angelic looking child with all the classroom virtues, described by her teachers as the perfect pupil just because she kept out of trouble and did her best to please, was out in front, with her brothers close on her heels. Everyone is laughing or shouting, and at top speed.
That same year, I wrote some parodies which they sang at the school concert in Browns' long villa passage. One was sung to the tune of Maori Battalion, and the Diamond family amazed me in Christchurch about 30 years later when they all sang it from memory! It went something like:
School of Coonoor work quite willingly,The distance from Diamonds' front gate to the school was always quoted as exactly a mile, though I questioned that from the start, judging from the time I could record running on this fast slightly down-hill mile! Some mornings, Michael would give me a minute start, and chase me on the old bone-shaker bike. There were times when we flashed across the line together, just in time to start school in a lather of sweat. I mentioned Graham Berry, who came to the school from Makuri as a Form II pupil in the same year as Rosalie. His parents, Mr & Mrs Ken Berry, had taken over the farm next to Corbins on the Makuri Rd, and one of Graham's comments at Coonoor almost brought the house down. We were sitting inside one lunch-hour with our sandwiches, when Graham suddenly asked, "Don't you have to chew thirty here?" Shocked silence! "Whadda y' mean, chew thirty?" "Well," said Graham, "At Makuri we were all bolting our lunches so we could get out and play footie, so Mrs Manchester made us chew every mouthful thirty times. It's called chewing thirty!" Rosalie nearly choked on a sandwich, and Paul and Michael hooted about it for days.
Farm work was a recreation for me, and I put in many hours in Joe Diamond's Donald wool-press, being so crazy fit from running that I was accused of making the bales too heavy. Joe could never quite understand how a city boy could prove to be such a great worker. He added, of course, "I s'pose it might be a different story if you were doing it all the time!" He was not a man to let a word of praise go to anyone's head. When I stayed at the Browns, Arthur too would encourage me to broaden my experience by getting up at 3 or 4 am and helping him to muster the Puketoi Range block next to Diamonds. I rode a very friendly little horse called Wairoa, a chestnut with a creamy mane, and enjoyed every minute of it. From Arthur's point of view it was probably good cheap labour, but I didn't see it that way at the time.
As for the quality of education that children received in the tiny school, it was probably not too bad. Joe Diamond in later years described me as"the last of the old school", realizing that I would probably take that as an insult. I still had a lot to learn about teaching, but I regarded it as my job to make sure they could write properly, spell correctly, do normal arithmetic, and know something about their country and the world in general. We also had fun in school, through phys.ed., music and art/craft. In later years I came to put far more emphasis on speaking and listening, and exposure to quality children's books. But even in 1948, before the world-wide explosion in children's literature, I tried to interest them in the age-old myths of Greek and Roman tradition, and some of the stories used by Shakespeare in his eternal plays. After having told them the story of his "Hamlet", they wouldn't let it rest until we had done an improvised version of the final Act. We had corpses all over the floor! The fact that most of these children went on to achieve well at secondary schools is probably more attributable to their parents' genes and home influence than to any specific teaching skills of mine.
But I certainly awakened Alan Brown's interest in gymnastics! They stood on their heads, formed pyramids, and did handstands. Years later, when Alan was recovering in Dunedin Hospital from a head operation (a tumour, I think), I was aghast when he leapt out of bed and did a headstand in his hospital room! At the age of five, he had come to Dunedin with my brother Arch and me for a school holiday, and we were vastly entertained by his naive wonderment at the sights and sounds of the wide world he had hardly seen before. When Arch tried to convince him that South Island sheep were the same size as North Island cows, and that instead of milking stools they used step-ladders, as the cows were even bigger, he turned to me in the train, eyes like saucers, "They're not, are they, Mr J?" We took him to the pictures in Christchurch, and he just couldn't understand how these huge people acting on the screen in front of him got there. He kept shouting, to our embarrassment, "How do they, Mr J, how do they?"
But life did not begin and end in Coonoor. The real social life for young adults was centred on Makuri. There was a thriving tennis club, and a cricket team that travelled to Waione, Pongaroa and Ora after scratching around for a full team until midnight every Friday. We didn't win very often, and as a reasonable defensive batsman, I often found myself batting out time in the second innings to avoid an outright defeat. I remember batting for an hour and twenty minutes on one occasion for the grand total of 7. Once when opening the batting with Arthur Brown, who had been a good schoolboy cricketer at Christchurch Boys in the early 20's, I witnessed one of the slowest LBW decisions in the history of the game. Arthur's footwork was not as fleet as in his youth, but he always got something in the way. He was never bowled out, and the lbw was his most common means of dismissal. I was the non-striker, so got a great view. Arthur played back with copy-book style, almost touching the stumps with both heels, his bat came down too late, and the ball rapped him low down on the pads right in front of the middle stump. The bowler screamed his appeal, and the umpire Tom Verry, not a long-sighted man and a close friend and neighbour of Arthur, leaned forward peering down the pitch to see if he could mentally re-construct the incident in question. He must have been thinking, "Gee, it must have been pretty close!" and "I wonder if Arthur got his bat to it. Gosh, he might have!" and "I wonder if it would have just missed the stumps." What seemed like minutes later, Tom slowly shook his head and raised the finger, saying with a tinge of uncertainty, "I'm afraid you're out, Arthur."
I was a fanatic for table tennis in those days, and the young people of Makuri didn't need much encouragement to join in in the establishment of a club at the old hall. We ran four or five tables, and the favourite event was a handicap tournament, where the merest beginner could win through to the final, and the scratch players might have to give them 20 points start in a game up to 21! I would sometimes push-bike to table tennis, play till midnight, be put up by the Cecil Berrys, then catch Ken Anderson's mail-truck back to Coonoor just in time for school. One evening I was cycling really fast from Joe Diamond's to Creamery Corner when I saw a possum on the road. Thinking that I could flatten it like a car does a rabbit, I aimed straight at him, as he stared into my strong dynamo light. In fact, it was like hitting a big rock, and I went clean over the handlebars, and it makes me wonder how we survived in those days without crash helmets. We didn't even have them on motor-bikes!
Occasionally, the table tennis or rugby lads would come back from Makuri to Coonoor at night looking for possums to shoot in the lights of the car, and I narrowly escaped being shot by Wilf Tilsley as I darted forward to get a better view. His finger had been moving on the trigger, when he saw my movement, and it was indeed a sobering experience.
I remember my time at Coonoor with great affection, mainly because of the warm and hospitable way in which I was treated by the Diamonds and the Browns, but also from the marvellous times I had with the "spinsters and bachelors of Makuri", as they described themselves on a gift I still have to this day. Names that need no effort to recall include: Charlie, Jean & May Douglas, whose mother also welcomed me as another son, Lola Berry & Roy Jury (who married), Beatrice Champion (she knew how to enjoy life), Joe Turnbull & Vic Souness (from Diamonds) ,Maurice Orr (one of our best table-tennisers), Peter & Janet Wilson (newly-weds then!!), Bede Alpass (never without his jeep), Laurence Dransfield (all-night parties?) ,Ian Whitta (married Jean Douglas), Leo Lindenhovius & Gerald Griffioen (from Holland), Michael Dinwiddie (from Christs College), but joined us for cricket in the holidays.
Joe Turnbull is a nephew of Joe Diamond, and I have kept occasional contact with him through the years. We visited him in Sydney when he was New Zealand Consul there, and he has had a varied and interesting diplomatic career, including Trinidad and Hong Kong. His year at Coonoor was a kind of finishing school between school and University, and we had a lot of fun together.
May Douglas, too, has kept in touch, and called in here just last Christmas. We also called on Charlie Douglas when he farmed just out of Te Awamutu, and recalled with glee the time we sent the women off to church, and claimed that we experienced more religion than they did, as we sat on the steps up the Pori Rd looking at the stars, and wondering what was beyond them. ..... I am still wondering that 55 years later.